Pruning roses is an important element of their care.  It is emphasized everywhere to such a degree that one can easily become fearful of tackling the job.

While pruning roses may take a little time, the concepts and techniques are easy to learn. Roses will also forgive (almost) any mistake. With practice and observation, gardeners can learn what roses prefer and what to do to make them thrive.

In the Historic Rose Garden, we often work in teams which makes the work go faster and seem much more fun. At left, Anita and Janelle work together.

This page is not an instruction manual for pruning roses, but does include some basic tips and techniques. Rose Garden volunteers are a great resource for gardeners learning how to prune roses. Come and visit us on Tuesday and Saturday mornings and we'll get you started.

Pruning Roses

Why Prune?

First, roses do not actually require pruning. Many of the roses in this garden are good examples. These rescued roses spent many years in complete neglect with no human care and at the mercy of weather. In dry years, they hunkered down and in wet ones they put out new canes. Canes became tangled and plants sprawly, yet still they grew.

So why prune? A number of benefits can be achieved by proper wielding of pruners on roses. Purposes for pruning:

  • To promote the health of the plant as diseased and dead canes are removed.
  • To increase sunlight and air circulation by removing overcrowded canes.
  • To shape the plant, control the size and train it to grow where it is wanted.
Pruning for the health of the plant will be undermined by using dull, dirty tools for the job. Before beginning, tools should be prepared:
  • Sharpen prunners and loppers using a honing stone. Sharp tools make clean cuts that helps prevent disease.
  • Clean tools before beginning to prune. A simple solution of a few drops of bleach or alcohol in a quart of water will sanitize tools. (Commercial products are also available.)
  • Carry a spray bottle of solution to clean tools between plants to avoid carrying disease from plant to plant.
  • When pruning a clearly diseased rose, clean pruners between each cut.

What To Prune

First step is to examine the overall appearance of the rose. Ask:

  • Is it too big?
  • Is the shape appealing?
  • Is the plant growing where & how it should? (overgrowing a path, etc.)

Look for the "5 D's". Note that not every one of these will be on each plant, but it gives a place to start.

  • Dead - cane (all or part) has died.
  • Diseased - the cane or foliage or flowers show signs of disease or pests.
  • Damaged - the cane shows damage from rubbing on other canes or damage from wind or weedeaters, etc.
  • Diagonal - the cane is growing across the center of the plant, blocking light and air.
  • Done - the blooms are finished and the flower stems ready to be removed.

Roses should be pruned after the bloom season is done; many are pruned in winter when the plants are dormant.

  • Once blooming old garden roses are generally pruned in late spring or early summer after the bloom season.
  • Species roses require very little pruning once established and are pruned in late spring/early summer to shape the plant.
  • Roses planted during the dormant season are pruned when planted.
  • Repeat blooming roses can be pruned after the last flowering in autumn or in late winter when the plants are dormant.

 

How To Prune

There are many who argue that Old Garden Roses do not require the severe winter pruning of the more modern types. In fact, there are proponents of various approaches from just simple deadheading to minimal pruning after flowering to just shaping the plants in winter. 

One observation: each rose has its own requirements and it doesn't take too many seasons to learn what it is.

Roses have alternating buds.
  • Cuts should be made just above a bud facing in the direction you want the rose to grow.
  • To maintain an open plant, make cuts above an outward facing bud.
  • On a rose with arching canes, some inward facing canes are desirable.
Cuts should be:
  • Clean - no raggedy edges or tears on the cane's surface. This could admit disease.
  • Angle away grom the bud - if toward the bud, a little bowl is created where moisture can sit and admit disease.
  • stub-less - that is, close to the bud. Stubs left above the bud will die back to the bud and perhaps below the cut.

 

There are many resources for more detailed information about pruning roses. Three of the most usefule are:

American Horticultural Society's Pruning & Training by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. (DK, 1996)

How to prune and train more than 800 trees, shrubs, roses, fruits and climbing plants. Included are basic techniques, plant dictionaries, and training and pruning by plant groups (e.g., roses).

The Ultimate Practical Guide To Pruning and Training by Richard Bird. (Hermes House, 2007)

This British publication focuses on training plants. Pruning and training of trees, shrubs, hedges, topiary, tree and soft fruit, climbers and roses. It includes practical advice and step-by-step techniques with over 700 photographs and 270 practical illustrations.

Vintage Gardens

www.vintage gardens.com

The plant care section includes pruning for modern roses, shrub roses, gallicas, damasks and climbing rose arbor pruning.